tailgating, california-style

Now, I'm not big on your typical football food. Buffalo wings? Who came up with that crime against nature? But I do like cool appetizers that have big, fresh flavors and can be made for a crowd-- like Vietnamese Spring Rolls.

I love the crunchy carrots, the cool rice noodles, the shrimp, pork and the beautiful flavors of mint and cilantro--all wrapped up in a neat package.

You start out with dried rice papers, which you rehydrate until they are soft and pliable.

Then you stack your ingredients-- herbs, noodles, pork, shrimp, lettuce-- and wrap the whole thing up tightly into little burrito-shaped bundles.

The whole dish really comes together when you dip your roll in Nuoc Cham, that salty, spicy sauce that brings the Thai flavors home.

Don't let the fact that these rolls are healthy turn you off-- they're super delish!

Fresh Vietnamese Spring Rolls

1/4 lb dried rice vermicelli noodles

1 lb pork tenderloin, roasted

16 large shrimp, cooked

1 large carrot, cut into fine julienne

16 large soft lettuce leaves

16 round dried rice papers

32 fresh mint leaves

16 sprigs fresh cilantro

In a medium bowl, cover the rice noodles with warm water for 10 minutes or until soft. Drain, then cover with boiling water for 2 minutes and drain again. Rinse with cold water and set aside.

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise and set aside.

For rice paper wrappers, wet and wring out a towel and lay on your work surface. Fill a wide pie plate with hot water and immerse one sheet of rice paper until it's pliable and looks like wrinkled wet tissue.

Place a variety of ingredients--lettuce, carrots, rice noodles, herbs, shrimp and pork, on the middle of the rice paper. Fold up bottom edge, then fold in sides and roll up burrito-style, keeping the roll tight. It's best to prepare rolls no more than a few hours in advance.

Yield: 16 rolls

Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced

2 1/2 Tbsp sugar

1/3 cup Vietnamese fish sauce

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup water

Stir together all ingredients

(Joyce Jue adapted by crc)

Sugar, Custard, Yum!

I think I know why everyone loves creme brulee. First you have to break through this beautiful crackly caramelized sugar... only to uncover a silky, creamy custard underneath. That perfect contrast of textures--I'm in love, too!

Then there's the fun of making it. You get to play with fire! Everyone loves picking up that torch and giving the sugar just the right amount of heat to turn a lovely mahogany. My students are sure to love this on Day 4 of my Pastry Chef for a Week Class!

Here is a great recipe for creme brulee that uses whole eggs in addition to yolks, which makes it slightly lighter. I served this at a dinner party I catered last weekend and a guest came to the kitchen to say it was the best creme brulee he had ever eaten! Very simple to make.... give it a try!

Creme Brulee

1 extra large egg

4 extra large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar, plus more for bruleeing

3 cups cream

1 tsp vanilla

Preheat the oven to 300F. In a bowl, whisk the egg, yolks and sugar together until lightened in color. Heat cream in a saucepan until steaming hot; pour about half into the yolk mixture, whisking all the while, then add the rest. Add the vanilla and mix. Pour into 5 or 6 six-ounce ramekins. Place ramekins in a baking pan and pour hot water into the pan until it's about halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake 35-40 minutes, until custards are just set, but still have that "jello jiggle". Remove from water bath, cool, then refrigerate until firm.

To serve, sprinkle each custard with about 1 Tbsp sugar. With a torch, brulee the top of each until the sugar is evenly caramelized.

going, going, gone!

September is a little bittersweet. I do like cool-weather cooking... but I do mourn the end of stone fruits, melons and berries!

Here's a last-ditch way to use strawberries and basil, two perfect summer companions. It's part of Day 3 of my Pastry Chef for a Week class, which features ice creams, sorbets and granitas!

Strawberry-Basil Sorbet

1 lb strawberries

1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp water

1/3 cup sugar (or to taste)

2-3 tsp vodka, kirsch or framboise

1/2 cup chopped fresh basil (plus more for freezing if desired)

Put 1 cup berries in small saucepan. Add 2 Tbsp water and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes until most of the berries are tender. Less cooking is best! Scrape berries and juices into food processor or blender. Add remaining berries and sugar and puree until smooth. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of puree. Stir in remaining 1/3 cup water and adjust sugar if necessary. Add liquor and basil and chill for at least 1 hour (overnight is fine). Strain and discard herbs. If desired, mince a tablespoon of additional fresh basil and add to puree before freezing. Pour into ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions.

(recipe from Pure Dessert by Alice Medrich, adapted by cr)

Let Them Eat Cake!

Day 2 of my Pastry Chef for a Week Class is all about cakes. But let's focus for a minute on those super cute, super trendy mini cakes--cupcakes!

I like this recipe for Lemon Meringue Cupcakes because it has a tender cake, the flavor burst of lemon curd (yum) and meringue on top instead of icing.

Lemon Meringue Cupcakes

3 cups flour

1 Tbsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

8 oz unsalted butter, room temp

2 cups sugar

4 eggs, room temp

3 Tbsp finely grated lemon peel

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup buttermilk

Lemon Curd

Italian or Swiss meringue

Preheat oven to 325F. Line muffin tins with paper liners.
Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

With an electric mixer on medium high speed, cream together butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3-4 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until each is incorporated, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Beat in lemon zest and vanilla. On low speed, add flour mixture in thirds, alternating with buttermilk and lemon juice. Mix just until incorporated after each addition.

Divide batter among cups, filling 3/4 full. Bake until light brown and a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, about 25-30 minutes.

With a spoon or melon-baller, remove a little cake from the top of each cupcake and fill with about 1 Tbsp lemon curd (or you can just spread curd on top of cupcake). Pipe meringue onto cupcake, forming a peak. Brown tops with a torch or under the broiler.

Yield: 24 cupcakes

(recipe from Martha Stewart adapted by crc)

Easy as Pie (and Tarts)

Whenever I teach a class on pies and tarts, I include this recipe for a classic French Apple Tart.
The combination of the sweet apple puree on the bottom with the top layer of beautifully caramelized apples on top is so lovely and incredibly delicious!

Classic French Apple Tart

8 large (about 4 lbs) Golden Delicious apples
1/2 lemon
1/2 cup sugar plus 1 Tbsp for top
1 tsp vanilla or 1 vanilla bean, scraped
1/2 cup water
1 recipe sweet tart dough (pate sucre)
3 Tbsp butter, melted
2 Tbsp apricot preserves, heated and strained


Peel and core HALF the apples and cut into 1/2" cubes. Place in a saucepan with the juice of 1/2 lemon, the sugar, vanilla and water. Cook over medium heat, stirring occassionally, for 15 minutes or until apples are soft and water is evaporated. Cool. Peel, core and half the remaining apples and slice as thin as you can.


Preheat the oven to 375F. Line 8" or 9" tart pan with dough. Spread cooked apple mixture in pan and press the slice apples into a spiral on top, starting on the outside edge and working toward the middle in concentric circles that slighly overlap. Brush generously with butter and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until apples have browned edges and crust is golden. Brush with apricot glaze while still hot.


(from Baking by James Patterson, adapted by crc)

Perfect Fall Chicken

Nothing says lovin' like roast chicken in the oven--and if you add some beautiful citrus and herbs, it's even better!


This recipe, from my friend and fellow blogger Jodi Liano (mmmthatsgood.blogspot.com)
couldn't be simpler. It's a simple oven braise of chicken thighs, white wine, olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs. Toss everything in a baking dish at a super low heat.... let it go for a few hours... uncover it so it can get nice and toasty brown.. and you're good to go!



I have to admit, I make this dish all the time for my family, and many of my personal chef clients have also enjoyed this juicy, yummy chicken!

Pan Roasted Chicken with Citrus & Fresh Herbs


8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs

1 head garlic, separate into unpeeled cloves
1 1/2 lemons, cut into chunks

1/2 orange, cut into chunks

10 fresh thyme sprigs
5 fresh rosemary sprigs

3 Tbsp olive oil

2/3 cup white wine


Preheat oven to 300F. Put chicken pieces into a roasting pan and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Add garlic, lemon, orange, thyme and rosemary. Add oil and mix everything together with your hands, then spread the mixture out, making sure chicken pieces are skin side up.


Pour white wine over all. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 2 hours. Remove foil and turn up oven to 400F. Cook uncovered chicken for another 30-45 minutes, until meat is golden brown and citrus has started to caramelize at the edges. Serves 4-6.

fabulous farro

I love to turn people on to farro. It's an ancient grain, some say a relative of wheat, that was first cultivated in Mediterranean countries. I get pleasure from the idea that I can cook something that people also cooked thousands of years ago. I like that connection.
History aside... farro is just plain delicious. Nutty and "toothy", it's great served naked and also good all dressed up with herbs and vegetables. Hot or room temperature. Very convenient.

Here's a super simple recipe, inspired by the queen of grains, Heidi Krahling, chef/owner of Insalata's Restaurant in San Anselmo. (http://www.insalatas.com/) Heidi also has recently published a cookbook, Insalatas Mediterranean Table, filled with recipes for her great style of cooking!

Toasted Farro with Lemon and Parsley
1 cup farro (I look for "semi-pearled"--it cooks faster)
1/2 cup minced onions
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/4 cups chicken or veg stock
1 tsp salt
zest of 1 lemon (use a microplane for a fine zest)
2 Tbsp chopped parsley
pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a medium saute pan and add onions and farro. Saute over a medium heat, stirring frequently, until grains are evenly browned, about 15-20 minutes. Add liquid and salt. Cover and simmer until tender, but still al dente--about 20-30 minutes. Add the zest and parsley and adjust seasoning. Serve hot or cold.
Serves 4