tailgating, california-style

Now, I'm not big on your typical football food. Buffalo wings? Who came up with that crime against nature? But I do like cool appetizers that have big, fresh flavors and can be made for a crowd-- like Vietnamese Spring Rolls.

I love the crunchy carrots, the cool rice noodles, the shrimp, pork and the beautiful flavors of mint and cilantro--all wrapped up in a neat package.

You start out with dried rice papers, which you rehydrate until they are soft and pliable.

Then you stack your ingredients-- herbs, noodles, pork, shrimp, lettuce-- and wrap the whole thing up tightly into little burrito-shaped bundles.

The whole dish really comes together when you dip your roll in Nuoc Cham, that salty, spicy sauce that brings the Thai flavors home.

Don't let the fact that these rolls are healthy turn you off-- they're super delish!

Fresh Vietnamese Spring Rolls

1/4 lb dried rice vermicelli noodles

1 lb pork tenderloin, roasted

16 large shrimp, cooked

1 large carrot, cut into fine julienne

16 large soft lettuce leaves

16 round dried rice papers

32 fresh mint leaves

16 sprigs fresh cilantro

In a medium bowl, cover the rice noodles with warm water for 10 minutes or until soft. Drain, then cover with boiling water for 2 minutes and drain again. Rinse with cold water and set aside.

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise and set aside.

For rice paper wrappers, wet and wring out a towel and lay on your work surface. Fill a wide pie plate with hot water and immerse one sheet of rice paper until it's pliable and looks like wrinkled wet tissue.

Place a variety of ingredients--lettuce, carrots, rice noodles, herbs, shrimp and pork, on the middle of the rice paper. Fold up bottom edge, then fold in sides and roll up burrito-style, keeping the roll tight. It's best to prepare rolls no more than a few hours in advance.

Yield: 16 rolls

Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced

2 1/2 Tbsp sugar

1/3 cup Vietnamese fish sauce

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup water

Stir together all ingredients

(Joyce Jue adapted by crc)