Let Them Eat Cake!

Day 2 of my Pastry Chef for a Week Class is all about cakes. But let's focus for a minute on those super cute, super trendy mini cakes--cupcakes!

I like this recipe for Lemon Meringue Cupcakes because it has a tender cake, the flavor burst of lemon curd (yum) and meringue on top instead of icing.

Lemon Meringue Cupcakes

3 cups flour

1 Tbsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

8 oz unsalted butter, room temp

2 cups sugar

4 eggs, room temp

3 Tbsp finely grated lemon peel

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup buttermilk

Lemon Curd

Italian or Swiss meringue

Preheat oven to 325F. Line muffin tins with paper liners.
Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

With an electric mixer on medium high speed, cream together butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3-4 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until each is incorporated, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Beat in lemon zest and vanilla. On low speed, add flour mixture in thirds, alternating with buttermilk and lemon juice. Mix just until incorporated after each addition.

Divide batter among cups, filling 3/4 full. Bake until light brown and a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, about 25-30 minutes.

With a spoon or melon-baller, remove a little cake from the top of each cupcake and fill with about 1 Tbsp lemon curd (or you can just spread curd on top of cupcake). Pipe meringue onto cupcake, forming a peak. Brown tops with a torch or under the broiler.

Yield: 24 cupcakes

(recipe from Martha Stewart adapted by crc)

Easy as Pie (and Tarts)

Whenever I teach a class on pies and tarts, I include this recipe for a classic French Apple Tart.
The combination of the sweet apple puree on the bottom with the top layer of beautifully caramelized apples on top is so lovely and incredibly delicious!

Classic French Apple Tart

8 large (about 4 lbs) Golden Delicious apples
1/2 lemon
1/2 cup sugar plus 1 Tbsp for top
1 tsp vanilla or 1 vanilla bean, scraped
1/2 cup water
1 recipe sweet tart dough (pate sucre)
3 Tbsp butter, melted
2 Tbsp apricot preserves, heated and strained


Peel and core HALF the apples and cut into 1/2" cubes. Place in a saucepan with the juice of 1/2 lemon, the sugar, vanilla and water. Cook over medium heat, stirring occassionally, for 15 minutes or until apples are soft and water is evaporated. Cool. Peel, core and half the remaining apples and slice as thin as you can.


Preheat the oven to 375F. Line 8" or 9" tart pan with dough. Spread cooked apple mixture in pan and press the slice apples into a spiral on top, starting on the outside edge and working toward the middle in concentric circles that slighly overlap. Brush generously with butter and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until apples have browned edges and crust is golden. Brush with apricot glaze while still hot.


(from Baking by James Patterson, adapted by crc)

Perfect Fall Chicken

Nothing says lovin' like roast chicken in the oven--and if you add some beautiful citrus and herbs, it's even better!


This recipe, from my friend and fellow blogger Jodi Liano (mmmthatsgood.blogspot.com)
couldn't be simpler. It's a simple oven braise of chicken thighs, white wine, olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs. Toss everything in a baking dish at a super low heat.... let it go for a few hours... uncover it so it can get nice and toasty brown.. and you're good to go!



I have to admit, I make this dish all the time for my family, and many of my personal chef clients have also enjoyed this juicy, yummy chicken!

Pan Roasted Chicken with Citrus & Fresh Herbs


8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs

1 head garlic, separate into unpeeled cloves
1 1/2 lemons, cut into chunks

1/2 orange, cut into chunks

10 fresh thyme sprigs
5 fresh rosemary sprigs

3 Tbsp olive oil

2/3 cup white wine


Preheat oven to 300F. Put chicken pieces into a roasting pan and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Add garlic, lemon, orange, thyme and rosemary. Add oil and mix everything together with your hands, then spread the mixture out, making sure chicken pieces are skin side up.


Pour white wine over all. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 2 hours. Remove foil and turn up oven to 400F. Cook uncovered chicken for another 30-45 minutes, until meat is golden brown and citrus has started to caramelize at the edges. Serves 4-6.

fabulous farro

I love to turn people on to farro. It's an ancient grain, some say a relative of wheat, that was first cultivated in Mediterranean countries. I get pleasure from the idea that I can cook something that people also cooked thousands of years ago. I like that connection.
History aside... farro is just plain delicious. Nutty and "toothy", it's great served naked and also good all dressed up with herbs and vegetables. Hot or room temperature. Very convenient.

Here's a super simple recipe, inspired by the queen of grains, Heidi Krahling, chef/owner of Insalata's Restaurant in San Anselmo. (http://www.insalatas.com/) Heidi also has recently published a cookbook, Insalatas Mediterranean Table, filled with recipes for her great style of cooking!

Toasted Farro with Lemon and Parsley
1 cup farro (I look for "semi-pearled"--it cooks faster)
1/2 cup minced onions
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/4 cups chicken or veg stock
1 tsp salt
zest of 1 lemon (use a microplane for a fine zest)
2 Tbsp chopped parsley
pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a medium saute pan and add onions and farro. Saute over a medium heat, stirring frequently, until grains are evenly browned, about 15-20 minutes. Add liquid and salt. Cover and simmer until tender, but still al dente--about 20-30 minutes. Add the zest and parsley and adjust seasoning. Serve hot or cold.
Serves 4

here comes the bride

There comes a time in every pastry student's life when a wedding cake must be made.
Some students look forward to it all session.
Some dread it.
But the time had come!
Making a wedding cake is a multi-day endeavor. Cakes (10", 8" and 6") were baked and buttercream and fillings made on Monday night.
The cakes were torted on Wednesday night and filled with a variety of flavors, like lemon curd, blueberry buttercream, pistachio cream and whipped ganache.

Saturday morning, bright and early, we were joined by wedding cake creator Julie Durkee of Torino Baking (www.torinobaking.com) who brought her expertise in all things bridal!

The students worked in teams, crumb coating their cakes, then applying the final buttercream icing, making sure they had everything level and precise. Julie demonstrated her beautiful piping techniques, and the students tried their hands at scroll work, basketweave, dots and flowers.

After decorating each layer, the cakes were built. I think this was the most nerve-wracking part for the students as they made sure the cakes were perfectly centered.

But the finished results were magnificent!

Here's the happy group at the end of the day... ready to cut into their masterpieces and see how delicious they tasted!

And here's the even-happier group, at the post-class gathering for a well-deserved beer!

le fraisier

I can't help it--I'm in love with French fraisier cakes. The layers of fluffy genoise... Grand Marnier syrup... fresh strawberries.... rich pistachio cream... all topped with marzipan. What's not to love?

I also love the way they look. Building them is an exercise in patience, as my pastry students found out recently when they tried their hand at "le fraisier".

After you torte the genoise into two perfect layers (so far, so good...) you line strawberries of equal heights into lovely rows, so when the cake is cut, all sides have beautiful strawberry halves showing.

You then pipe in a massive quantity of pistachio cream to fill in all the gaps.

The really fun part comes when you set the top layer of genoise on the berries and cream, making sure it's perfectly level.

One of my favorite pastry teaching moments came when a student emailed me a photo of a fraisier cake he made at home, with a level sitting on top so I could see how perfect it was! (Thanks, Ray!)

Pistachio cream is piped all around, then a thin layer of buttercream is applied to the top, and of course, leveled.

A sheet of light green marzipan becomes the top layer, and chocolate writing and decor are the finishing touches.

My students did a beautiful job on these cakes--they were the challenging beginning to a week that ended in Opera cakes!

I learned fraisier cakes from the master--Philippe Delarue, owner of Patisserie Philippe in San Francisco. Day after day I would make fraisier cakes, small ones to serve 12, huge ones to serve 40! Each day Philippe would come by and do the final leveling before they were chilled and the marzipan layer was applied.

One day, he looked at my finished cake, and without touching it, simply picked it up and took it to the walk-in.

I had arrived!

Here's a gorgeous cake of Philippe's, complete with gold leaf.

Where's my fork?

american desserts

American desserts have been weaving their way into my baking lately. You know the ones I mean. They're the desserts you had as a kid growing up in Ohio... or the ones your grandmother made... or the ones you remember were so luscious at some diner in the next town over. Nothing fancy, nothing elaborate... just simple baking with pure flavors.

I've been baking the past few months at Della Fattoria (http://www.dellafattoria.com/), a bakery-cafe in Petaluma. Besides their incredible bread, which is baked in a wood-fired oven at the family ranch, there is a cafe in town where pastries are made. I've been playing with some all-American classics, like fresh pineapple upside down cake.... it's caramel-y goodness makes it no wonder it's been a favorite ever since Jim Dole found a way to can pineapple in the 1920s!

It was also a little slice of heaven to make butterscotch pudding and homemade oreos....

But the afternoon I pitted a case of spring cherries and made individual cobblers may have been my favorite.

We were planning to serve them for Friday night dinner at the cafe... but the minute they hit the case at lunch time, people started ordering them with homemade vanilla bean ice cream. I think it struck some nostalgic nerve!

Meanwhile... I offered an American Dessert class at Tante Marie Cooking School. Students spent the afternoon baking lemon meringue pie, apple pies, cherry pies, big fat chocolate layer cakes, carrot cake with cream cheese frosting and pecans, peanut butter cookies, chocolate chunk cookies, coconut cupcakes..... whew!

Some people had a favorite memory of the dessert they chose to bake... for others, it was a chance to bake something they had always wanted to try.

I think I'm going to keep going down my list.... I can envision a summer full of grunts, slumps, crisps and bettys!