summer bliss

Labor Day has come and gone... but I can't stop thinking about the great food I ate all across America this summer!!

Early morning beignets in New Orleans.... lunchtime muffaletta (best sandwich of my life)!



Red beans and rice, shrimp poboys--as Ina would say, "how bad can that be? Jumping up to the Northeast, say hello to farms full of peaches, tomatoes and blueberries... all make cooking and baking so effortless.

Lucky for me, friends and family are good cooks---Dennis on the crab boil, Mia on the grilled pizza!

Then there's me.... a happy to have a full plate, a glass of wine and a jigsaw puzzle. Not letting go of summer yet!

baking from the farmer's market

  

I love teaching baking at Della Fattoria in Petaluma because the fruit is straight from the farmer's market-- fresh, seasonal, and best of all-- it's ripe! The Webers, who own the bakery/cafe, sell their amazing bread at two farmer's markets a week, and return to the kitchen with a van full of beautiful produce.

Shortcakes! Who can resist luscious berries, whipped cream and a sweet, flaky biscuit? The class also made hand-pies, one of the "new" pastries showing up on menus (everything old is new again!)

Everyone wants to learn to bake pies right now--and I have such a easy technique for flaky crust that never fails! 

Nectarine Cobbler... Apricot Upside-Down Cake.... it's hard to stop baking when the fruit is so beautiful!

channeling my inner martha

In the beautiful world of pastry, so many things entice me...French macarons, brioche, tarts, mousses and meringues... and one always sits squarely at the bottom of my list--cake decorating.
You either love it or you hate it. You know where I stand.
So when a client asked for six dozen decorated Easter cookies, I smiled bravely and said "but of course!"

I baked the cookies (no prob)... mixed up quarts of royal icing (piece of cake)... then looked for divine intervention.

The mistress of all things cute answered my call. Martha.
She gave me strength to dig out those tips, fill those pastry bags and get to work.
I decided to dip the eggs for a smooth look... so far, so good.

Then it was time to build-a-bunny... and I went into production mode.

A little toothpick art for the spring butterflies..... and I was actually having fun.

Then Mia wanted to join team for the Olympic event of piping-and-flooding chicks and eggs.. followed by wet-on-wet dots, beaks and eyes. We needed a few glasses of wine after that one .

At the end of the day, I have to admit that although I felt like a preschool teacher with a spring art project (missed that glitter, though!), it was fun in a goofy sort of way. I have nothing but admiration for people who decorate so effortlessly... and beautifully. As for me, I'm dying to get my paws on some bread dough!

ode to asparagus

Asparagus is one of those less-is-more vegetables. Buy beautiful, bright green spears with tightly closed tips--thick or thin, whichever you like--then don't mess around with them too much so their delicious, grassy flavor really shines.

Here's my go-to method for preparing asparagus, which also happens to be the world's easiest recipe (how convenient!)
 Preheat your oven to 400F. Trim off the tough ends of a bunch of asparagus. Put them on a baking sheet. Drizzle them with a nice amount of olive oil, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, then roll them around so all sides are coated and they're laying in a single layer. Roast for about 8-10 minutes,  until they're as done as you like them. My test of doneness is when the tip of a paring knife can easily pierce the asparagus, but you may like them crunchier or softer. Take the sheet of asparagus out of the oven and drizzle with balsamic vinegar, rolling them around until they're coated. That's it!
If your grill is hot, you can also grill the oil-coated asparagus and finish them the same way.

Roasted asparagus (with or without the balsamic) are delicous tossed with hot pasta with a little more olive oil and some shaved parmesan. Or do like the Italians and place 4-5 spears on a plate and top with an over-easy egg... dipping the spears into the yolk for the perfect sauce. I had that dish in someone's home in Florence 30 years ago (yes, my best memories always involve food...) and I've never forgotten it!

she's gotta have 'em

This is the time of year when I am absolutely tomato-starved. I've spent all winter opening cans of San Marzanos--which are good for that soup or stew, sure.... but what I really want is to bite into a sun-warmed tomato with that unmistakable flavor and fragrance of summer.
So, in the meantime, I've come up with this plan--roasted cherry tomatoes, tossed with one of my all time favorite vegetables, fennel.

Roasting both of these vegetables brings out their natural sweetness and concentrates their flavors.
This is a very quick side dish, delicious with a lovely piece of pan-roasted fish or chicken, but I also love it as a vegetarian main dish--just add some cannellini beans and a little shaving of parmesan.
One pan.. stove to oven... perfect!

Roasted Tomatoes and Fennel

• 2 large fennel bulbs with fronds attached
•  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 pints grape or cherry tomatoes
• 4 large fresh thyme sprigs
• 3 large garlic cloves, minced
• ¼ tsp dried crushed red pepper

   Preheat oven to 425°F. Trim fennel bulbs and cut each bulb into 1/2-inch-wide wedges, leaving some core attached to each wedge.
   Heat oil in large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, then add fennel wedges in single layer and sprinkle with salt. Cook until fennel begins to brown and soften, turning occasionally, 10 to 12 minutes. Add tomatoes, thyme, garlic, and crushed red pepper, season with salt and pepper, folding together gently.

   Transfer skillet to oven. Bake fennel and tomatoes until soft, about 20 minutes.   Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yield: 6 servings (adapted from a Bon Appetit recipe)

if life gives you lemons....

The only saving grace of the cold, wet weather we've been having is when the sun finally peeks through, I can feast my eyes on a miraculous sight--a tree full of Eureka lemons in my front yard and a tree full of Meyer lemons in my backyard.
OK, the Meyers aren't really mine... but isn't there some rule about if it hangs over your fence you're allowed to eat it?

So I fill buckets with lemons, promise myself I'm going to be a good girl and juice them and freeze them. Instead, I make a big jar of lemonade and this killer and incredibly easy chicken recipe, full of lemons, thyme and rosemary (for the recipe, look under September on this blog for a post called Perfect Fall Chicken ). 

If I'm in the mood for something sweet (like every day...), I take all that lovely lemon juice and zest and make these Lemon and White Chocolate Mousse Parfaits with fresh Strawberries, a recipe I saw in Bon Appetit Magazine and tweaked a little.  Yes, it takes a minute. You make a lemon curd (with any kind of lemon you like), a little white chocolate ganache, whip a little cream, and dice up some berries. Layer the mousses in a pretty glass, and it's guaranteed to make you forget it's still winter!

Lemon and White Chocolate Mousse Parfaits with Strawberries

• 5 large egg yolks

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

• 4 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel
• Pinch of salt

• 1/4 cup plus 2 2/3 cups chilled heavy whipping cream

• 1 3.5-ounce bar white chocolate, chopped

• 5 cups diced strawberries (about 2 pounds)


Whisk egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, lemon peel, and salt in medium metal bowl to blend. Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water. Whisk until mixture is thickens but doesn’t boil, about 6 minutes. Pour through a strainer into a clean bowl and cool to room temperature. This is your lemon mousse base.


Combine 1/4 cup cream and white chocolate in another medium metal bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir constantly until chocolate is melted. Remove bowl from over water and cool to room temperature. This is your white chocolate mousse base.


Beat remaining 2 2/3 cups cream in large bowl until firm peaks form. Divide whipped cream between both mousse bases, folding in 1 cup at a time (about 3 cups for each).


Make layers of white chocolate mousse, strawberries, and lemon mousse in 8 parfait glasses or wineglasses; Spoon strawberries over top of each parfait, if desired, and serve.


Yield: 8 servings

whole lotta baking goin' on!

Wow--if ever there was a season of baking for me, it's been this fall and winter!
I've had the pleasure of teaching enthusiastic students in Marin, Emeryville and Sacramento and have loved every minute of it!




It's so great to see people "get it"--whether it's how to make a flaky pie crust or a fluffy buttercream.

I also love getting emails about how students are using the new techniques they've learned at home and getting rave reviews!

Mile-high Lemon Meringue Pie at a Thanksgiving Baking Class.... a classic Fresh Fruit Tart at a Pie and Tart Class.. or Lemon Currant Scones and Blueberry Muffins at a Breakfast Class....
To quote Martha.... It's all good!

parties, parties, parties!

 I have had so much fun this winter leading cooking parties in private homes!

It's the perfect scenario for party-goers--I do the shopping, bring delicious fool-proof recipes, and set up stations around the kitchen with all the ingredients and equipment they'll need.

Everyone arrives--usually a group of friends or co-workers, looking for a fun night out with some GOOD food. They have a glass of wine while I talk about the recipes and demo a few "chef" tricks (the right way to chop an onion or jalapeno or how to devein a shrimp).

Then everyone chooses a recipe, breaks into groups, and gets to work!

Not to worry, nervous chefs... I work the room, offering advice on how to make each dish turn out perfectly (and they always do...!)

Appetizer parties have been really popular and make a fun, casual evening. As each group finishes their appetizer, they platter them and serve them to the other chefs--so there's plenty of eating, drinking and cooking throughout the evening!

Bloody Mary Shrimp.... Asian Lettuce Wraps... Corncakes with Spicy Avocado Salsa...Cherry Tomato Phyllo Pizza.....  yum, my mouth is watering just thinking about it all!

And yes, there is one more important detail.

While the guests are finishing up their last bites and pouring another glass of wine, the kitchen is magically being cleaned by the elves.

Who said cooking isn't fun???!!!

made to order

I got a phone call the other day that reminded me of why I love working as a personal chef (among my hundred other food jobs!)

The call was for a week's worth of dinners--a gift from one friend to another to celebrate the birth of her second child. What a really thoughtful gift for a tired mom! And just the kind of work I love--cooking delicious, nourishing food for an appreciative audience!

The rest of our conversations were online... favorite foods, likes/dislikes... we settled on a kind of mix-and-match, heat when you're hungry kind of approach.

I spent a day simmering Chicken Cacciatore (my mouth is watering just thinking of it!)... a Roasted Poblano Pork Stew to serve over soft Polenta... a hearty Provencal Vegetable Soup with Pistou swirled in... Salmon with Salsa Verde... Grilled Vegetables... a Quinoa Salad with Pears, Apples and Walnut Vinaigrette... and a Classic Chicken Noodle Soup that even a kid would love.

Everything was labeled, packaged for refrigerating or freezing, and had reheating instructions.

I tucked it all into the mighty Prius (my idea of the perfect catering-mobile) and headed south, for delivery.

I was greeted by a grateful mom, an excited two year old and a sleeping newborn.

A nice feeling knowing I was helping to put a delicious dinner on the table!

tailgating, california-style

Now, I'm not big on your typical football food. Buffalo wings? Who came up with that crime against nature? But I do like cool appetizers that have big, fresh flavors and can be made for a crowd-- like Vietnamese Spring Rolls.

I love the crunchy carrots, the cool rice noodles, the shrimp, pork and the beautiful flavors of mint and cilantro--all wrapped up in a neat package.

You start out with dried rice papers, which you rehydrate until they are soft and pliable.

Then you stack your ingredients-- herbs, noodles, pork, shrimp, lettuce-- and wrap the whole thing up tightly into little burrito-shaped bundles.

The whole dish really comes together when you dip your roll in Nuoc Cham, that salty, spicy sauce that brings the Thai flavors home.

Don't let the fact that these rolls are healthy turn you off-- they're super delish!

Fresh Vietnamese Spring Rolls

1/4 lb dried rice vermicelli noodles

1 lb pork tenderloin, roasted

16 large shrimp, cooked

1 large carrot, cut into fine julienne

16 large soft lettuce leaves

16 round dried rice papers

32 fresh mint leaves

16 sprigs fresh cilantro

In a medium bowl, cover the rice noodles with warm water for 10 minutes or until soft. Drain, then cover with boiling water for 2 minutes and drain again. Rinse with cold water and set aside.

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise and set aside.

For rice paper wrappers, wet and wring out a towel and lay on your work surface. Fill a wide pie plate with hot water and immerse one sheet of rice paper until it's pliable and looks like wrinkled wet tissue.

Place a variety of ingredients--lettuce, carrots, rice noodles, herbs, shrimp and pork, on the middle of the rice paper. Fold up bottom edge, then fold in sides and roll up burrito-style, keeping the roll tight. It's best to prepare rolls no more than a few hours in advance.

Yield: 16 rolls

Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced

2 1/2 Tbsp sugar

1/3 cup Vietnamese fish sauce

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup water

Stir together all ingredients

(Joyce Jue adapted by crc)